World-renowned climber dies in tragic avalanche disaster: "Immense heartbreak"

Kathmandu, Nepal - Acclaimed climber Nirmal Purja, a trailblazer who summited the world's tallest mountains, is confirmed dead after an avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak, his climbing company said on Saturday.

Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja speaks during a 2021 interview with AFP in Skardu, Pakistan.
Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja speaks during a 2021 interview with AFP in Skardu, Pakistan.  © AAMIR QURESHI / AFP

Purja served with Britain's Brigade of Gurkhas and then the Special Boat Squadron of the Royal Marines before becoming a full-time mountaineer and guide. He was 43 years old at the time of his death.

He famously summited the 14 highest peaks in the world in just over six months in 2019, shattering the previous record of seven years.

"It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak," Purja's company Elite Exped said in an Instagram post.

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"We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive."

Nepal's Prime Minister Balendra Shah offered his condolences over the deaths of Purja and the other climbers, which he said "has shocked us."

"The physical journey of all the deceased climbers... has been interrupted, but the history of their courage, dedication, and contributions will always remain inspiring," Shah said in a statement on social media.

The determined climber had the 14 mountains tattooed across his back, complete with swirling clouds and Tibetan prayer flags.

His efforts were chronicled in a 2021 Netflix documentary, inspiring a new wave of climbers.

However, Purja had faced criticism for his use of guides, oxygen, and fixed ropes, as well as helicopters to go from one base camp to another.

Purja made history in 2021 with the first winter ascent of the treacherous K2, the world's second-highest peak, along with a team of nine other Nepali climbers.

He wrote on X this week that he was close to becoming the first person to climb all 14 "super peaks" twice without oxygen.

"Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down," he wrote. "My purpose has never been about me. It's about what I represent. It's about showing YOU that your own mountains — whatever they are — are climbable."

Broad Peak, part of the Karakoram range in northern Pakistan, is the world's 12th-highest mountain and is regarded as one of the toughest and most technical climbs of all the 8,000-meter-plus ascents.

Cover photo: AAMIR QURESHI / AFP

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