Met takes a feminist look at global fashion with new Women Dressing Women exhibit

New York, New York - New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art has pulled the curtain back on its latest blockbuster exhibit, showcasing women fashion designers many of whom have been kept in the shadows of obscurity until now.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's new Women Dressing Women exhibit traces the evolution of womenswear from the 20th century to today.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art's new Women Dressing Women exhibit traces the evolution of womenswear from the 20th century to today.  © TIMOTHY A. CLARY / AFP

One of the centerpieces of the Women Dressing Women exhibition is a dress by pioneering African-American creator Ann Lowe, who was largely ignored in her day even though she designed Jackie Kennedy's wedding gown in 1953.

The muslin dress is exquisitely detailed, sporting silk roses and intricate taffeta.

Three decades before Jackie O stepped out in Lowe's masterpiece, forgotten French fashion house Premet released a dress designed by Madam Charlotte called La garconne.

National Margarita Day: Cocktail recipes to shake things up!
Food National Margarita Day: Cocktail recipes to shake things up!

"This 'little black dress,' predates Chanel's successful take on the garment by three years," said Mellissa Huber, associate curator of the Met's Costume Institute.

Women Dressing Women aims to dispel stereotypes

The exhibition features 80 outfits designed by 70 female fashion creators, many of them overlooked throughout the years.
The exhibition features 80 outfits designed by 70 female fashion creators, many of them overlooked throughout the years.  © TIMOTHY A. CLARY / AFP

Through the 80 pieces by 70 creators, the exhibition also looks at the art of womenswear from the 20th century up to the modern day, as well as the environmental advocacy of designers like Gabriela Hearst and Hillary Taymour.

"The biggest overarching takeaway is really to celebrate and demonstrate the incredible range and diversity of women designers who have been present throughout history and who have made so many meaningful contributions to fashion," said Huber.

"We aspire to dispel the stereotypes that women are more practical than men, or that they all designed with themselves in mind."

For women, the story begins in the anonymity of sewing workshops to which they were often relegated.

But several French women designers made their mark in the early 20th century, including Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Lanvin and Gabrielle Chanel

In handpicking outfits designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci, and Vivienne Westwood, the Costume Institute delved into its collection of 33,000 pieces representing seven centuries of clothing.

2024 Met Gala in the works

The 2024 Met exhibition will display hundreds of pieces spanning four centuries, courtesy of the Costume Institute's vast archives.
The 2024 Met exhibition will display hundreds of pieces spanning four centuries, courtesy of the Costume Institute's vast archives.  © TIMOTHY A. CLARY / AFP

The exhibition, originally scheduled for 2020 to celebrate a century of women's suffrage in the US but delayed by the pandemic, ends on a more political note, looking at absences and omissions in museum collections.

Even as the exhibit gets under way, preparations are also in full swing for the 2024 Met exhibition and Gala, the fashion world's party of the year – and the theme will be Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.

The Met Gala, which draws an A list of celebrities, will take place in Manhattan on May 6 to celebrate the opening of the exhibition, which the public can view from May 10 through September 2. Both are cosponsored by TikTok.

The sweeping and immersive exhibition will feature about 250 garments and accessories spanning four centuries, courtesy of the Costume Institute's vast archives of 33,000 pieces – from a 17th century embroidered jacket to an Alexander McQueen gown from spring-summer 2001 made of shells.

The Met Gala is the primary source of funding for the Costume Institute. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour took over the charity gala in the 1990s and transformed it into one of the world's most hyped events.

Cover photo: TIMOTHY A. CLARY / AFP

More on Fashion: