Monsters and memes: China's Labubu dolls become must-have accessory

Shanghai, China - Small, fuzzy, and baring sharp teeth, Chinese toymaker Pop Mart's Labubu monster dolls have taken over the world, drawing excited crowds at international stores and adorning the handbags of celebrities such as Rihanna and Cher.

Small, fuzzy and baring sharp teeth, Chinese toymaker Pop Mart's Labubu monster dolls have taken over the world.
Small, fuzzy and baring sharp teeth, Chinese toymaker Pop Mart's Labubu monster dolls have taken over the world.  © PEDRO PARDO / AFP

Beijing-based Pop Mart is part of a rising tide of Chinese cultural exports gaining traction abroad, furry ambassadors of a "cool" China even in places associated more with negative public opinion of Beijing, such as Europe and North America.

Labubus, which typically sell for around $40, are released in limited quantities and sold in "blind boxes," meaning buyers don't know the exact model they will receive.

The dolls are "a bit quirky and ugly and very inclusive, so people can relate," interior designer Lucy Shitova told AFP at a Pop Mart store in London, where in-person sales of Labubus have been suspended over fears that fans could turn violent in their quest for the toys.

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"Now everything goes viral... because of social media. And yes, it's cool. It's different."

While neighboring East Asian countries South Korea and Japan are globally recognized for their high-end fashion, cinema, and pop songs, China's heavily censored film and music industry has struggled to attract international audiences, and the country's best-known clothing exporter is fast-fashion website Shein.

There have been few success stories of Chinese companies selling upmarket goods under their own brands, faced with stereotypes of cheap and low-quality products.

"It has been hard for the world's consumers to perceive China as a brand-creating nation," the University of Maryland's Fan Yang said.

Pop Mart has bucked the trend, spawning copycats dubbed by social media users as "lafufus" and detailed YouTube videos on how to verify a doll's authenticity.

Brands such as designer womenswear label Shushu/Tong, Shanghai-based Marchen, and Beijing-based handbag maker Songmont have also gained recognition abroad over the past few years.

"It might just be a matter of time before even more Chinese brands become globally recognizable," Yang said.

What Labubumania means for China's global image

This picture taken on June 18, 2025 shows figures of the characters Mokoko (l.) and Labubu (r.) in an exhibition room at Pop Mart’s theme park Pop Land in Beijing.
This picture taken on June 18, 2025 shows figures of the characters Mokoko (l.) and Labubu (r.) in an exhibition room at Pop Mart’s theme park Pop Land in Beijing.  © PEDRO PARDO / AFP

Through viral exports like Labubu, China is "undergoing a soft-power shift where its products and image are increasingly cool among young Westerners," said Allison Malmsten, an analyst at China-based Daxue Consulting.

Malmsten said she believed social media could boost China's global image "similar to that of Japan in the 80s to 2010s with Pokemon and Nintendo."

Video app TikTok – designed by China's ByteDance – paved the way for Labubu's ascent when it became the first Chinese-branded product to be indispensable for young people internationally.

Joshua Kurlantzick from the Council on Foreign Relations (CFR) told AFP that "TikTok probably played a role in changing consumers' minds about China."

TikTok, which is officially blocked within China but still accessible with VPN software, has over one billion users, including what the company says is nearly half of the US population.

The app has become a focus of national security fears in the US, with a proposed ban seeing American TikTok users flock to another Chinese app, Rednote, where they were welcomed as digital "refugees."

A conduit for Chinese social media memes and fashion trends, TikTok hosts over 1.7 million videos about Labubu.

While plush toys alone might not translate into actual power, the US' chaotic global image under the Trump presidency could benefit perceptions of China, the University of Maryland's Yang said.

"The connection many make between the seeming decline of US soft power and the potential rise in China's global image may reflect how deeply intertwined the two countries are in the minds of people whose lives are impacted by both simultaneously," she said.

Cover photo: PEDRO PARDO / AFP

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